Photo Album: Urban Jaffa

By the Bronze Age Jaffa was a bustling port town. In the 1930s and more so in the 1940s, Jaffa was a full-blown diverse, and cosmopolitan city and the export center and the entrance to Palestine. Jaffa had cabarets, bars, 18 cinemas, theatres, and the cultural and entertainment area was known as The Cafe Area. Jaffa had more public bathhouses than mosques and churches. It had 27 schools, banks, tile and textile factories, high-end shopping, markets, bakeries, patisseries, fashion ateliers, and a railway station. Jaffa had the majority of Palestine’s publishing and printing houses and was the intellectual center of Palestine. Jaffa, older than Jerusalem was the New York and urban capital of Palestine. With a new masterplan, Jaffa was planning an expansion of its urbanism.

A rare photograph treasure from Palestine: Frank Scholten was a wealthy Amsterdammer who traveled to Palestine between 1921-1923. He mainly stayed in Jaffa and his collection holds over 13.000 photographic prints. This archive is a high resolution and open source, feel free to use.

King George Street, note the Jaffa water tower in the far right corner, Matson Collection / Palestine Remembered

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Jaffa’s Masterplan was published in 1946. It is the work of Egyptian engineer Ali Mas’oud and city planner Osman Rostum. The ambitious plan included schemes for new housing projects, transportation infrastructures, public parks, and the development of the city’s waterfront. The proposal positioned Jaffa at the forefront of urban development in Palestine and envisioned its future within a broader regional landscape, Mediterranean and Arab.

مشروع تخطيط مدينة يافا, علي المليجي مسعود. الناشر: القاهرة : مطبعة مصر تاريخ الإصدار: ١٩٤٦

Aerial photo of Jaffa, 1937, Palestine Remembered

1937 Jaffa, Al Hamra cinema had 1,100 seats. In addition to films, it served as a theatre and concert stage. Here with a Palestinian flag. Palestine Remembered

22 March 1944 Al Hamra during a choir concert, Yaffa48

Below: The Ottoman Governor’s House in Jaffa in 1889.

Above: the same building after the occupation in 2015, Jaffa, Palestine Remembered

Jaffans Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

In 1976, three Israeli architects looked for a suitable location to build the Etzel Museum—a museum honoring the zionist paramilitary group that attacked, ethnically cleansed, and occupied Jaffa in 1948. They came to the Manshiyya neighborhood and found three Palestinian ruined sites. They described these ruins as striking for their “‘power of survival” as if they were not conscious of the act of destruction. The architects erected the Zionist memorial museum for the group responsible for the whole destruction and ethnic cleansing of Jaffa city, on top of the homes of ethnically cleansed Jaffans,keeping them visible as ruins.

“The Municipal Building of Jaffa”, 1 January 1917, this photograph appeared in the January 1918 journal “The War”

The same Municipal Building of Jaffa, September 1929, Ottoman Imperial Archives

Jaffa 1940s Bassa Stadium, (today Bloomfield Stadium, Jaffa). From looted material from the office of Rashid Haj Ibrahim, Head of the National Committee, Haifa. / via Rona Sela

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Bank Barclays on the left at the Clock Tower Square. Photograph by Miko Schwartz

“An oriental home” Jaffa, 1900, Underwood & Underwood

In 1932, Dr. Mustafa Fakhri established the first Ophthalmology clinic in Jaffa. This advertisement was published in Falastin Newspaper in 1932. The photographs show before and after operations.

In July 1843, the French consulate in Jerusalem established a consular courier service. Six years later in 1852, it created a shipping agency and a French post in Jaffa.

The Jaffa Post Office was built on 23 Jerusalem Street between 1934-38 and is still functioning as a Post Office today.

Post Office on Jaffa’s Jerusalem Boulevard, photo taken between 1939-45, by Miko Schwartz, Haifa University Database

The construction of Jaffa’s Central Post Office on Jerusalem Street, 1936, from the National Library of Israel.

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

“Between Egypt and Palestine daily. Our luxurious and comfortable vehicles. Leaving Cairo at 6 in the morning, arriving in Jaffa the same day at 5.30 (pm). Leaving Jaffa at 6 in the morning, arriving in Cairo at 5:30 the same day,” Palestinian Remembered

Jaffa Municipal Slaughterhouse, 1930, Palestine Remembered

A market in the winter near a church. The Mediterranean on the right, Jaffa
Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Iskandar al-Habash promotional advertisement was the sole agent of the ‘National Sudwa Records Company’ in Jaffa on Ajami Street. Sudwa was a Syrian record company based in Aleppo, owned by Watar brothers. This announcement was published in the Jaffan weekly culture and art magazine Al-Fajr in July 1935. The magazine was published throughout the 1930s.
“This wonderful monologue arrives soon, composed by Sir Mohamed El Qasabji and sung by Um Kulthum on Odeon records.” Source: “A People by the Sea: Narratives from the Palestinian Coast.” The Palestinian Museum N.G. المتحف الفلسطيني – جمعية غير حكومية

Al Ajami Neighborhood, 1933, Image Source

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Ibrahim Hassan Sarhan, founder of ‘Falastin’ film studio

“Falastin Studio:

The filming starts on the 4th of February 1945 at 1 pm. All members of the administration have to attend on the mentioned date at 9 am in the office of the studio near the French Hospital in Jaffa.” Advertisement in Jaffan Falastin newspaper.

“Coming soon: Falastin Studio introduces its first film of Palestinian production “A Storm at Home”. With two main actors Ahmad Simhan and Hayat Fawzi. With the beloved comedian Salah Sirhan. In addition to five actors, three actresses, and child actor Mahmoud Simhan. PO BOX 410 Jaffa, director Ibrahim Sirhan” Difa’ newspaper 19 October 1944

Just near the ‘Palestine Film Studio’ lay The French Hospital of Jaffa built in 1887. The hospital was in the Ajami neighborhood where Alfred Roch was taken after he had a heart attack while on his way to his office on 22 April 1942. Alfred Roch died in one of the private rooms and was blessed in the hospital’s chapel. The Palestinian Jaffan hospital is now an Israeli luxury hotel named The Jaffa/ Tel-Aviv. The French Hospital’s chapel is now a design bar. The hospital was a prominent building related to the social fabric and history of Jaffa, the Jaffa Hotel refers to its history as a 19th-century building.

The French Hospital in Jaffa now turned into an Israeli The Jaffa Hotel, source Booking.com

The French Hospital in Jaffa now turned into an Israeli The Jaffa Hotel, in one of these rooms Alfred Roch spent his last moments.
source Booking.com

Icecream vendor Jaffa 1935-47 source Facebook

Two cafes near a mosque and church, Jaffa,
Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa Train Station, 1903,
The Jaffa-Jerusalem railway track was the first railway in Palestine, built in 1838. Ottoman Archives

Shoe atelier in Jaffa, 1938, Source

Train platform connecting all the way to Kantara, north of the country. 1934 Palestine Remembered

The Hijaz route aimed to connect Damascus to Medina, passing through Palestine and connecting it to the whole region. The first railway route was inaugurated in 1892 and connected Jaffa and Jerusalem. This was followed by train services to the north of and south of Palestine.

Jaffa Railway Station, 1920, Yaffa48

The director of Jaffa Port Customs, Hanna Tannous and his family. The Family also imported American cars and had a publishing business. Family portrait from 1944

A courtroom in Jaffa

Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

The Jaffa-Jerusalem railway track, the first railway in Palestine, built in 1838

Footage from the Lumeire brothers’ short “Palestina en 1896“

Image Source – Advertisement for Palestine’s boxing champion, Adib al-Dasouki’s Boxing Match against a German boxing champion at al-Hamra Cinema on 8 June 1945, at 8:30pm. “The proceeds will be donated to the afflicted Syrian and Lebanese people”.

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Almahmoudiyya Mosque Courtyard, Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

**Hotel Jerusalem** was the first luxury hotel in Jaffa in the German Colony and functioned between 1870 – 1940 and had 57 rooms on 1899 square meters. Palestine Remembered

Water well in a Jaffan Home, Reem Ackall

Palm Sunday in Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Public fountain in Jaffa’s City Center, Jihad Abu Rayya

The Dajani Private Hospital in Jaffa, 1933. Al-Dajani was a hospital with 50 beds that served 2,221 patients in 1944. It was built in 1933 by Palestinian doctor Fouad Ismail Bakr Dajani. After the fall of Jaffa, Jaffans worked hard to name a square in memory of Fouad Ismail Dajani.

“Bonaparte Visiting the Hospital in Jaffa,” Jean-Antoine Gros (painter) and Pigeot (engraver), c. 1800, Liberty, Equality, Fraternity. Bibliothèque Nationale de France

The English Hospital, El Hilwe Street opposite Tabeetha School, Jaffa, 1900s (Arts & Culture/Istanbul Research Unit). Nurse sister Marie who worked in the hospital wrote on 13 March 1909 about Jaffa “Picture to yourself an interminable garden of orange, pomegranate, and palm trees… and on the (other) side the sea, shining and sparkling as if the crest of each wave were studded with a thousand diamonds!”

The opening Ceremony of a new Hospital on 52 Hilwe St., Jaffa, 1878, Ottoman Imperial Archives

Dr. Hassan Khalidi at the Jaffa Government Hospital, early 1940’s, source: British Mandate Jerusalemites

At the market, Jaffa (photographer and year unknown) source: Palestine Remembered

Jaffa, a receipt of 15 Palestinian pounds paid by Ms. Muhja Al-Maghribi on 4 June 1948 Birzeit University Digital Palestinian Archive

Dr. Hasan Khalidi operating on a patient at the Jaffa Government Hospital, 1940’s, source: British Mandate Jerusalemites

Jaffa 1936 Nqula El Jildeh’s Tarboosh or Fez hat-making atelier, opposite Jaffa’s Clock Tower on the Martyr Square.

Issa Halabi’s pharmacy Jaffa, was founded in 1898, Alkamal Pharmacy was the only pharmacy that survived the Nakba in 1948 and still functions in the same spot when it was established in 1924.

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINOScholten

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Palestinian Buick, and other luxury car agency shop was owned by the Hamo Jaffan family who fled as refugees in 1948 and their shop was taken. The first photograph is after the takeover by Israel, the shop has a Hebrew sign stating “Joseph Zadok and son sell Jewelry”. Tarek Bakri

Abu Nabout Sabeel, a drinking and watering spot for travelers, before 1920, Matson Collection

The ancient part of Jaffa by the sea, before being destroyed by the British occupation after the 1936 revolt. Later what was rebuilt and left of the neighborhood in 1948 was destroyed by Israel. Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa markets, cauliflower season in the winter, sold outside by women and girls with fresh herbs. Spices from the Far East and the region were available all year long and sold in a shop usually by men Image Source

1934 Iskander Awad Street, Jaffa Palestine, Source Pinterest

Mosque in Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa, Al Mahmoudiyya mosque’s courtyard, built in 1735. The mosque had multiple additions at different times. In 1948 after Jaffa fell, the mosque was confiscated by the State of Israel under the absentee law. It was reopened and renovated by Jaffans and other Palestinians in 1982.

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Falastin Newspaper’s headquarters in Ajami neighborhood, Jaffa, 1938 (image from a film) Source: Wiki 2

Hotel du Parc, Jaffa 1902, Library of Congress

Palestine Remembered

The Near East Arab Broadcasting Station, Jaffa Palestine. Palestine Remembered

Jaffa, Palestine Remembered

The first Palestinian stamp was printed in Jaffa, known for its best printing houses.

This advert appeared in 1937 promoting the American Royal Typewriters by Palestine Educational Co. with its two branches, in Jerusalem, and Jaffa. The bookshop was jointly owned by Edward Said’s father Wadie Said and his cousin. “*We are honored to continue the legacy of Said’s bookshop and stationery store up until now, we hold this legacy with pride and honor.”* Wrote Edward Said in his biography ‘Out of Place’. The Jaffa branch of The Palestine Educational Company’s telephone number was 190″

An exterior courtyard in a soap factory. The merchants of Jaffa relied on Nablus and Jerusalem to supply them with olive oil. The largest soap order Jaffa’s merchants had to secure, was during the 1830s for the Egyptian army during the Egyptian attack and rule of Palestine (1831- 1840). Soap remained one of the most important products manufactured for Jaffa’s markets until the beginning of the 20th century. Photograph Frank cholten, 1921-23 NINO

Horses and Carriage, Jaffa, 1885

Jaffa Tobacco Company, Maspero, 1921-23, Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

A range of Maspero Cigratte Boxes on display at the Palestinian Museum

Jaffa’s 60cm railway usually transports packed oranges from storage to the port. Maspero shop in the background, Palestine Marine Agency, a Greek Orthodox priest, Hebrew signs, Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Abo Al-Afye restaurant Jaffa 1910, Abu ‘Afiya Bakery was established in 1879 and today has three branches. Yaffa48

“Economic Geography”, a Book for the Seventh Grade of Primary School, 1942

Issued by The Jaffa Printing Company in 1942 and distributed through The Modern Library in the cities of Jaffa and Haifa, the third edition of the book “Economic Geography” approved by the Education Department in the Government of Palestine for the seventh grade of primary school, and was written by Wasfi Anabtawi and Saeed As-Sabbagh. Palestinian Museum Digital Archive

Jaffa, Al Mahmoudiyya mosque during prayer, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffan home, Frank Scholten 1921-23/ NINO

Jaffa’s Teacher Training Center, the young teachers in training here are from Jaffa, Kufur Yaseef and Rameh.

Yaffa48

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23, NINO

The road from Jaffa to its suburb Salameh, 1930, Palestine Remembered

Ottoman Military Band in Jaffa, Palestine, 1903 Ottoman Imperial Archive

Jaffa 1930, Palestine Remembered

Jaffa 1921-23, Frank Scholten, NINO

The Bibi Family home was built in 1910 by Ali El Bibi (on the right) as a villa on the edge of his 60-acre orange grove. The orchard had a waterwheel with German Wagner diesel engines. Ali owned 60 dunums of orange orchards. The home was on Gaza Street in Nuzha Neighborhood. The orchards and house were confiscated in 1948 when Israel turned it into a secret service center then it became a Jewish religious school, and afterward another private school. Later it became the Afaq Center for Democracy.

Ali Al Bibi’s villa in 2021, source Prof Mustafa Kabha

The Clock Tower, 1902

Al Afghani family villa in the North East of al Manshiyya in Jaffa, near the Jaffa railway track, 1935.

From left to right, Jaffa 1934 Al Afghany shop, the second photograph Alafghani family as refugees opened their shop in Amman, photo in 2014. The photo on the right is of the their Jaffan shop and its condition in 2014. Source

A cafe on Ali Al Mustaqeem Street in Jaffa, On the Right: Ali Al Bibi, On the Left: Yousef Al Salahi and his brother Ali Al Salahi, 1934

Jamal Basha Street, 1935, Palestine Our Homeland

Postcard of Jaffa Market

Jaffa Street View, 1921-23, F. Scholten, NINO

Jaffa 1921-23, Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa, 1930 Yaffa48

Jaffa 1921-23, Frank Scholten, NINO

Tamarind juice seller in Jaffa, 1918 Yaffa48

Girls playing with a swing on a playground of an orphanage, Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten/ NINO

Jaffa 1932, a teller for foreign exchange was located in Balabsah Market in Jaffa, opposite Abu ‘Afiya Bakery established in 1879 and today has three branches. Yaffa48

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa, 1936, Israel State Archive

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffan House, 1939-45, Miko Schwartz, Haifa University Database

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Soap factory Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

The Abu Nabbout Sabeel, drinking spot outside the Mahmoudiyya Mosque, 1939-45 Miko Schwartz, Haifa University Database

Al Hamra Cinema, Jaffa, 1946-47 (PIO) Palestine Information Office, The Jewish Agency’s Press Relations, Israel State Archives

Jaffa 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa, 1939-45, Miko Shcwartz, Haifa University Database

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23, NINO

Victoria Houmsi owned The Arabic Hotel in Jaffa on Station Street, Al Mahatta, near the train station. Houmsi was also part of the Al Uqhuwan, an underground resistance group. Nothing is left of the hotel.

Image Source – Victoria Humsi’s business card, including the address of her hotel. Victoria with her child.

Jaffa, 1921-23 Frank Scholten, NINO

Jaffa, women Collecting Donations, 1930s Palestine Remembered

Street view of sesame bread salesboy in Jaffa on Hilwe Street, in the center you can see the Clock Tower, 1946, Yaffa48

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23, NINO

Altar of church in Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23 NINO

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23, NINO

Headmast of the main newspaper Falastin, published in Jaffa, established in 1912

Salesboy with Falastin newspaper, 1921, Frank Scholten NINO

*“The notable men of the three cities are on call”* The first public telephone in Jaffa, the first phone call was made to Beirut and Damascus on June 2nd, 1933 by Falastin newspaper’s editor-in-chief. Naturally, the first calls were made to connect to the Shaam – to Lebanon and Syria.

Jaffa, Frank Scholten 1921-23, NINO

Volume III of the Book “The Fundamentals of Modern Accounts“, 1947Issued by at-Taher Brothers Library in Jaffa in 1947, volume III of the book was taught to the fifth grade of primary school according to the decision issued by the Department of Education in the Mandate Government of Palestine. It was written by Zuhair Mustafa Shihabi, Ali Rashid Shaath and Ibrahim Mahmoud Snobar. The book contains topics related to multiplication and division, the definition of a prime number, divisibility of numbers from 1 to 11, regular fractions and decimals, power, square root, greatest common denominator and least common factor, measures, areas and volumes.